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Kerala Backwaters: Houseboat vs Shikara, Which One Should You Choose?

Overnight houseboat or a few hours on a shikara? We compare cost, comfort, routes and experience in Alleppey and Kumarakom to help you pick the right backwater ride.

Updated 4 min read
Kerala Backwaters: Houseboat vs Shikara, Which One Should You Choose?

Gliding through Kerala's backwaters, past coconut palms, paddy fields and villages built along the water, is one of India's most peaceful travel experiences. When it comes to actually getting on the water, though, most travellers face one question: should you book an overnight houseboat or a shorter shikara ride? Both are wonderful, but they suit very different trips. Here is how they compare.

What Is a Houseboat?

A houseboat, locally known as a kettuvallam, is a large boat built from wood and bamboo, originally used to transport rice and spices. Today they are floating homes with bedrooms, attached bathrooms, a sit-out deck and a small kitchen. A crew of usually two or three people, including a cook, looks after you throughout the cruise.

How a typical houseboat cruise works

  • Check-in around noon at Alleppey (Alappuzha) or Kumarakom.
  • Cruise through the main backwater channels and Vembanad Lake until late afternoon.
  • The boat anchors for the night by around 5:30 pm, as per local regulations.
  • Freshly cooked Kerala lunch, evening tea with snacks, dinner and breakfast are usually included.
  • Check-out the next morning around 9 am.

What Is a Shikara?

A shikara is a smaller, canopied motorboat, usually seating between 4 and 15 people. You hire it by the hour, typically for 2 to 4 hours, and it can enter narrow canals that large houseboats cannot reach. There is no overnight stay, but you get a much closer look at village life.

Houseboat vs Shikara: Side-by-Side

Experience

A houseboat is about slowing down completely. You watch the landscape drift by from your deck, eat a home-style meal cooked on board and wake up on the water. A shikara is more of a sightseeing ride. It takes you into narrow village canals where you see children rowing to school, women washing clothes and fishermen casting nets up close.

Cost

Houseboat prices depend on the number of bedrooms, category (standard, deluxe, premium or luxury), season and whether the boat is air-conditioned. Premium and peak-season dates such as Christmas and New Year cost significantly more. Shikara rides are charged per hour and are much more affordable, making them ideal for budget travellers and larger groups.

Time

  • Houseboat: Roughly 21 to 22 hours for an overnight cruise, or a day cruise of about 6 to 8 hours.
  • Shikara: Anywhere between 1 and 4 hours.

Comfort and privacy

Houseboats offer private bedrooms and bathrooms, and on a private booking the whole boat is yours. Shikaras have simple seating and no toilets, so shorter rides are best.

Access to narrow canals

This is where shikaras win. Their small size lets them enter canals too narrow for houseboats, which mostly stick to wider channels and the lake.

Which One Is Right for You?

Choose a houseboat if

  • You are on a honeymoon, anniversary or family holiday and want a unique overnight stay.
  • You have at least one full day to spare in your Kerala itinerary.
  • You want to relax, read and enjoy home-cooked Kerala food.

Choose a shikara if

  • You are short on time or travelling on a tighter budget.
  • You want to see authentic village life in narrow canals.
  • You prefer sleeping in a hotel or resort rather than on a boat.

The Best of Both

Many of our travellers do both: a 2 to 3 hour shikara ride in the morning through village canals, followed by an overnight houseboat cruise. Another popular option is staying at a lakeside resort in Kumarakom and taking a sunset shikara ride on Vembanad Lake.

Practical Tips

  • Best time: September to March is pleasant. The monsoon (June to August) is lush and dramatic but can be very wet.
  • Book ahead in peak season: Good houseboats sell out quickly during December and January.
  • Ask about the boat category: Photos can be misleading. We inspect the boats we recommend, so you know exactly what you are getting.
  • Carry mosquito repellent: Especially for evenings on the water.
  • Mention dietary needs early: The on-board cook can prepare vegetarian, Jain or less spicy meals if informed in advance.

Whichever option you choose, our Kerala holidays combine the backwaters with Munnar's tea gardens, Thekkady's spice trails and Kochi's heritage lanes, all connected by comfortable cabs from our own network.

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Wander Without Maps

Travel specialist at Wander Without Maps — plans and personally checks the trips we recommend.